Installing the Acrylistain Finish

by Ethan Schneider

1. Prepare concrete by either acid etching and power washing or Mechanically abrading.
2. Apply skim coat in color of choice using hook trowel technique to create a vacuum under the trowel in order to create a stone like texture.
   (skim mixture is 5 ½ qts. Modifier to 1 bag of grout with one cup of colorant.)
3. Allow skim coat to dry. Dry time may take from several to 24 hours depending on temperature.
4. Flat scrape and or rock mop then broom and blow the surface twice.
5. Apply acrylistain mixture.
   Acrylistain mixture is ( ¼ cup colorant to 1 gal. of water) mix colorant and water in a standard pump sprayer. This mix ratio is a starting point and can be adjusted by adding more or less colorant to achieve the desired result.
6. Lightly mist plain water over area to be stained then apply stain mixture in a random circular pattern allowing stain to pool slightly in some areas and not in others. You can apply more than one stain color at a time. Be careful not to overlap the colors too much so as not to lose the mottled effect.
7. Allow the acrylistain to dry. Exterior jobs 75 degrees allow to dry for several hours before sealing. 2 to 10 hours depending on how much stain is applied, whether or not the area is in direct sun light, humidity, and air movement. Indoors, allow to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying any sealers. It is important to have air movement and ventilation on interior applications in order for the product to completely dry out. You do not want to apply sealer if the floor is not completely dried out.
8. Apply sealer of choice.
   Acceptable sealers:

150 or 155 acrylic solvent based for exterior applications.
Pro-seal 200 for both interior and exterior application.
Aquathane 6000 for both interior or exterior applications where low VOC’s are required or odor is an issue.
Rapid Armor high build epoxy.

Be sure to view "Acrylistain" videos in your Tech Tips DVD’s and in the "product application tips section" located on the dealer website before attempting this procedure.

Always make a sealed sample board with the skim and spray colors you intend to use and have it approved by your customer before doing the installation. Contact the CTI tech department with any questions.

Cold Weather Application

by Chuck Brewer

When temperatures dip and you’re trying to get the last few exterior jobs done, there are some tricks you can use to get the jobs to dry faster. Starting off with the obvious, use quick set modifier. Since products dry best when they’re warm and the surface is warm here’s a few ways you can accomplish both.

First, get your modifier warm, you do this with bucket belts that you can buy. Bucket belts are made to strap around a 5 gallon bucket, (normally used for thick roof coatings). These belts have a heating strap in them that once plugged in will heat the modifier up to 80 degrees.

You will want to put a heating blanket over your grout bags to get them warm. You might want to start both of these the night before to insure the product has ample time to get warm. Its important to heat the grout as well as the modifier; if not the grout will just cool down the modifier.

Third step, torch the concrete just in front of the guys skimming down the warm mix, this will insure fast dry time (Note torch a way from the guys skimming).

Working with patience

by Ethan Schneider

This article isn’t aimed at any specific CTI product or procedure, it is just a general discussion about the importance of time and patience on the job. Here in the tech department at CTI we receive calls on a daily basis in reference to cure and dry times.

We realize that time equates to money and that efficiency on the job is important. Obviously, the faster you can complete a job, the sooner you can get paid and move on to the next one. This idea sounds great in theory when your adding up your potential profits but, things don’t always go the way you think they are going to, especially when it comes to cure times and cooler temperatures. We are not suggesting that you change your work ethic and work more slowly. We are suggesting that you take into account the fact that cure times are going to be extended due to lower temperatures.

Cooler temperatures effect dry times for almost all CTI products. This is why it is essential to allow products to fully cure before moving on to the next step in the process. This is especially important when doing Acrylistains and Epoxy systems. Trying to rush through the process will most likely end up causing the job to take even longer than it should have, especially if you have to go back and re-do something. There are various techniques that can be utilized to help improve cure times in cooler temperatures depending on the nature of the job. Before starting jobs involving cooler temperatures consult the product spec sheets located on the dealer website, and call the tech department at CTI to discuss your particular application.

Tips From The Field

by Ethan Schneider

It is important that the Rapid Armor be abraded or sanded prior to the top coat application. 220 grit sandpaper works well for this. After sanding it is also important that all the dust be removed. It is recommended to wipe the surface with Acetone or Xylene after sanding to remove remaining dust. You can also go over the surface gently with a "Tack" cloth prior to application of the Pro-seal 200 or Aquathane 6000.

Watch Your Temperatures

by Ethan Schneider

Summer temperatures can affect your CTI products, especially sealers.

All CTI sealers are tested in a variety of different environments ranging from extreme cold to extreme heat. The figures that are provided on each product spec sheet for cure times, pot life, re-coat window times, and application procedures are all based on an average temperature of 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you store your products in your trailer and it is 90 degrees outside, your products are likely to hit temperatures close to 120 degrees. High temperatures can drastically affect pot life of two component products especially epoxy resins such as Rapid Armor, Superseal 210, Enviroprime, and 5000 Binder. Urethanes such as Aquathane 6000 and Pro-seal 200 can also be affected. Prolonged exposure of your products to high temperatures can also significantly shorten their shelf life.

Before using these products, it is recommended that you make sure the products are brought to the proper temperature range before mixing and application. For most products that range is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are a couple of ways to insure that your products are in the proper temperature range before application.

1. Try to store the products in the environment where they are going to be applied for several hours before the application.
2. Store the products in the air conditioned cab of your truck on your way to the job site.

Get a Better Bite

Recently there has been some discussion among CTI dealers and CTI corporate about using the "Magic Trowel" and or other squeegee type tools for skim coat applications.

Historically CTI has always promoted and taught skim coat application with stainless steel pool trowels. Application with the trowels ensures both a mechanical and chemical bond with the substrate.

The mechanical bond is a very important factor in the long term performance of the CTI system. Unfortunately, skim coat applications that are done using "MagicTrowels" or squeegee’s do not achieve the same degree of mechanical bond as those done with pool trowels and are therefore at greater risk of failure.

With that said, it is CTI’s position that it is always better to hand trowel skim coat applications

Villanova University Conducts Rigorous Testing on CTi's Products for PennDOT.

The college of engineering at Villanova University has just completed a series of rigorous tests on the CTi decorative overlay system for the Pennsylvania Department of Transportation. The tests centered around the strength and durability of the overlay in extreme stress and environmental situation.

The CTi System passed all test with flying colors and is now being considered by the Department of Tranportation as a protective and decorative measure to many of the bridge and road projects currently on their books.

To see the results of the tests, visit our Dealer Support site, sign in, and click on the "Products" tab. The results are the "Product Specifications" section.

Summer Application Tips

1) Temper your slabs to make skimming easier. During the summer months, concrete slabs can get too hot for application. The best way to cool a slab is to spray it down prior to your skim coat. First, spray the slab down completely to let the water absorb down into the concrete. Let the slab dry until water does not puddle on your hand when you put it down on the concrete. Begin your skim coat process and while you are skim coating, mist the slab to add more moisture and cool it.

2) Keep your modifier in a cool place. The summer months mean hot trailers. Take only the amount of modifier you will need for a job with you in your trailer. Leave the rest of your supply in a temperature controlled area. When modifier gets too hot (especially after it's been opened), it could grow fungus and ruin the product. If your modifier starts to "smell", don't use it as the fungus could have started to break down the chemistry of the modifier.

3) Keep an eye on the weather. Afternoon showers are a common occurrence in many areas of the country. Make sure you're prepared to protect your work when you know weather is on the way. If you get a skim coat down and it is completely dry, it will withstand most rain storms. You may have to touch up a couple of areas where downspouts drench the area, but most of the time your skim coat will remain in tact. Once you've sprayed your texture coat, allow enough time to get at least one coat of sealer on the project and that it dries. This will be enough to protect the project underneath.

Tips for application of "Aquathane 6000" and "Aquathane 6000 Satin".

The mixing procedure for both 6000 and 6000 Satin are the same. Pour the B component in to the A component original container and mix for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer at a meduim speed making sure not to form a vortex whipping in air.

Next take the mixed product and pour it in to a clean bucket and let it induce for 15 minutes and then mix it again for 1 minute with the jiffy mixer. The product should now be ready for application.

(Note) the "6000 Satin A" component may have a wax like layer on the top of the can and or chunks of wax like material within it. This is normal. Just make sure the product is thoroughly mixed, as the wax like material is what gives it the satin or matted appearance.

Use a 1/2" nap phenolic core roller to apply the 6000.

The 6000 has a 2-3 hour pot life so there is plenty of time to carefully apply the product.

Dip the roller in the bucket and begin the application. 6000 should be applied in a nice even thin coat. It should look like blueish skim milk on the floor. You should be able to see through the product when it is properly applied. If it is solid white then it has been applied too thick.

It is important to back roll out your lap lines between each pass of the roller. When you are done you should not see roller lap lines in the wet product. When you are back rolling be sure to take almost all the pressure off of the roller so that it very lightly pulls out the lines. This technique is even more critical with the Satin version.

Cure time for Aquathane "6000 and 6000 Satin" can vary dramatically depending on temperature, humidity, ventilation, and air movement. 6000 is a waterborne urethane. If it is applied indoors it is important to have ventilation and air movement so that the moisture has some place to go. If the area is shut up tight with little ventilation then the moisture will have no where to go and it will take much longer for the 6000 to cure.

Call the CTI tech department if you have additional questions.

Using 280 Over Concrete Board

Many of you ask how to use the 280 system over Hardy board for use in various areas. Here is a step by step instruction on how to put this system together accompanied with an illustration:

1. You should screw the Hardy board down with SS Screws every 6-12 inches on center. Make sure to countersink your screws.

2. Apply a coat of 280 over the joints where the Hardy board or DuroRock meet. You should dab some over the screw heads as well.

3. Apply drywall fiber mesh tape over the joints on the 280 waterproofing membrane.

4. A second coat of 280 is applied to the joints and troweled smooth.

5. Once steps 1-4 have been performed, the system should be allowed to dry for 24 hours. Then sand or rub brick to help smooth out and feather the edges.

6. The CTI System is now applied as usual over the top.

The CTI concrete board system is used for going over interior subfloors, countertops, walls (interior and exterior) and has been used to make custom signs.

NOTE: You need to make sure that what you’re going over does not have too much movement or flex to it. This is one of the reasons we screw the concrete board 6-12 inches on center so as to help ridge up the floor, counter, etc. If there is too much movement, the seams (joints) will telegraph or show a hairline crack at the surface.

Properly priming the slab before skimming.

by Ethan Schneider

Recently there has been some discussion about priming the slab before skim coating. To clarify this issue it is important to understand why we prime the slab after it has been properly prepped and before we skim.

On exterior applications we prime the slab with a mist of water to dampen the slab just prior to skimming. Doing this serves two main purposes.

1.Priming with water slows the absorbtion rate down so that the modifier has more time to penetrate into the pours of the concrete thus creating a better bond.

2. By slowing down the absobtion rate, it makes it easier to trowel the skim mix because it stays wetter longer. If we did not prime the slab before we skimmed then the slab would hydrate itself by absorbing the modier directly out of our skim mix causing the mix to tighten up faster.

It is important to to remember that we want to skim over a damp slab not a wet slab. We do not want to skim over standing or pooled water. The slab should appear darker because it is damp not shiny because it is wet.

There are specific situations when we may describe priming with modifier or not priming at all particularly on indoor projects or in colder climates. Please consult with the CTI technical department to determine the best procedure for the specific project.

• Tell customers they should expect a card in

the mail in about two years to schedule a light

power wash and more than likely, another

coat of sealer.

Please explain that if they do not call

or return the card you will not call

them to schedule this appointment.

Those warranty calls are great selling

opportunities for other areas of their

Common Acrylistain combinations

By Ethan Schneider

Acrylistain mixture is ¼ of 190 colorant to 1 gallon of water. This is a starting point and can be adjusted to achieve desired tones. In addition 195 Eurobond colorants can also be used for the Acrylistain process. Below are a number of color combinations. The possibilities are endless. You can use 1 color or several colors. There is no set rule or order in which the colors need to be applied. The base color of the skim coat can be any color you like. Many of the recipes below use a Sandstone base because it’s a light color and tends to work well with most other colors. It is also easier to make a job darker than it is to make it lighter. However, it is recommended that you make a sealed sample of the acrylistain and have it approved by the customer before starting the application.

Sandstone hook troweled skim coat
Burn’t Sienna
Desert Beige
Chocolate

Desert Beige hook troweled skim coat
Burn’t Sienna
Chocolate
Sanstone

Chocolate hook troweled skim coat
Burn’t Sienna
Desert Beige
Sanstone

Burn’t Sienna hook troweled skim coat
Desert Beige
Chocolate
Sanstone

Sandstone hook trowel skim coat
Chocolate full strength
Chocolate half strength

Sandstone hook troweled skim coat
Burn’t Sienna full strength
Burn’t Sienna half strength

Sandstone hook trowel skim coat
Dark Gray
Platinum Gray
Black



Dark Gray hook trowel skim coat
Black
Chocolate

Sandstone hook trowel skim coat
Dark gray
Platinum Gray
Desert Beige

Sandstone or Almond hook trowel skim coat
Desert Beige
Coral Reef or Salmon

Sandstone hook trowel skim coat
Dark Gray
Oxford Gray


Acrylistain


1. Prepare concrete by either acid etching and power washing or
Mechanically abrading.

2. Apply skim coat in color of choice using hook trowel technique to create
a vacuum under the trowel in order to create a stone like texture.

(skim mixture is 5 ½ qts. Modifier to 1 bag of grout with one cup of
colorant.)

3. Allow skim coat to dry. Dry time may take from several to 24 hours depending on temperature.

4. Flat scrape and or rock mop then broom and blow the surface twice.

5. Apply acrylistain mixture.
Acrylistain mixture is ( ¼ cup colorant to 1 gal. of water)
mix colorant and water in a standard pump sprayer.

6. Lightly mist plain water over area to be stained then apply stain mixture in
a random circular pattern allowing stain to pool in some areas and not in
others. You can apply more than one stain color at a time. Be careful not
to overlap the colors too much so as not to lose the mottled effect.

7. Allow the acrylistain to dry.

Exterior jobs 75 degrees in sun light allow to dry for several hours before
sealing.
Indoors, allow to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying any
sealers.

8. Apply sealer of choice.



Acceptable sealers:

150 or 155 acrylic solvent based for exterior applications.

Pro-seal 200 for both interior and exterior application.

Aquathane 6000 for both interior or exterior applications where low
VOC’s are required or odor is an issue.

Rapid Armor.


* Be sure to view “Acrylistain” video before attempting this
procedure.
* Always make a sample board with the skim and spray colors you
intend to use.



Acrylistain With Pattern


1. Prepare concrete by either acid etching and power washing or
mechanically abrading.

2. Apply a smooth skim coat in color of choice for grout lines.

(skim mixture is 5 ½ qts. Modifier to 1 bag of grout with one cup of
colorant.)

3. Allow skim coat to dry.

4. Flat scrape and or rock mop, then broom and blow the surface twice.

5. Lay out and apply filament tape over skim coat in desired pattern. Be sure to use “bondo blade” or plastic putty knife to press tape down firmly.

6. Before applying second skim coat, it is recommended that you very lightly spray over the tape with your hopper gun with the same color grout mix that you intend to trowel over the taped pattern. Holding the hopper gun about a foot away from the tape pattern, barely crack the trigger about a ¼ of the way to achieve a very light spray mist over the tape. It should be just enough to encapsulate the tape so as to minimize potential bleeding when you apply your acrylistain.

Note: Do not spray too much grout over the tape. To much grout over
the tape will cause jagged grout lines when the tape is finally
removed. Also it is a good idea to have saved a little bit of your
original skim coat material in case you have to touch up the grout
lines later on.

7. Apply skim coat in color of choice using hook trowel technique to create
a vacuum under the trowel in order to create a stone like texture over the
taped out pattern.

Note: Be careful not to trowel the stone texture too thick over the taped
out pattern. Skimming to thick may cause jagged grout lines when
the tape is pulled.

8. Allow the final skim coat to dry for at least several hours. Then very carefully flat scrape off any loose material, be careful not to damage the pattern tape. Broom and blow off twice.

9. Lightly mist plain water over area to be stained then apply acrylistain
mixture in a random circular pattern allowing stain to pool in some areas
and not in others. You can apply more than one stain color at a time. Be
careful not to overlap the colors too much so as not to lose the mottled
effect.

Acrylistain mixture:
( ¼ cup colorant to 1 gal. of water)
mix colorant and water in a standard pump sprayer.

10. Allow the acrylistain to dry.

Exterior jobs 75 degrees in sunlight allow to dry for several hours before
sealing.
Indoors, allow to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before applying any
sealers.

11. Pull tape, broom and blow.

12. Apply sealer of choice.

Watch you temperatures

by Ethan Schneider

Summer temperatures can affect your CTI products, especially sealers.

All CTI sealers are tested in a variety of different environments ranging from extreme cold to extreme heat. The figures that are provided on each product spec sheet for cure times, pot life, re-coat window times, and application procedures are all based on an average temperature of 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you store your products in your trailer and it is 90 degrees outside, your products are likely to hit temperatures close to 120 degrees. High temperatures can drastically affect pot life of two component products especially epoxy resins such as Rapid Armor, Superseal 210, Enviroprime, and 5000 Binder. Urethanes such as Aquathane 6000 and Pro-seal 200 can also be affected. Prolonged exposure of your products to high temperatures can also significantly shorten their shelf life.

Before using these products, it is recommended that you make sure the products are brought to the proper temperature range before mixing and application. For most products that range is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are a couple of ways to insure that your products are in the proper temperature range before application.

1. Try to store the products in the environment where they are going to be applied for several hours before the application.
2. Store the products in the air conditioned cab of your truck on your way to the job site.

Interchanging colorants between systems

by Ethan Schneider

The CTI tech department has received a number of calls asking if the 190 colorants that are normally used for the Hallmark application could be used for Eurobond applications. The answer is yes, however the 190 colorants do not react the same way as the 195 series Eurobond colorants. Therefore, it's always better to experiment on sample boards before speaking with a customer on using 190 colorants.

On the other side of the coin, the 195 Eurobond colorants can be used as accent colors for Acrylistain system.

Questions About Stamped Concrete

by Ethan Schneider

The CTI tech department often receives calls from dealers about going over, repairing, re-coloring, re-sealing or all of the above in reference to stamped concrete.

While each situation is different there are some common similarities. In general working on pre-existing stamped concrete jobs involves a number of unknown circumstances. We don’t know what kind of grout products, color pigments, color release agents, mold release agent, sealers etc. Keeping that in mind we don’t know how our CTI products are going to react or perform. Therefore, we can not guarantee anything. Many CTI dealers do in fact try to help customers with existing stamped concrete finishes but it is very important that the customer understands that there is no guarantee.

If you decide to work on one of these projects it is highly recommended that you first test out your procedure on a small inconspicuous area before attempting to do the entire job. If there are any sealers on the job it is best to try and remove them before you start. Sandblasting or using a Sandcat attached to your power washer usually will remove the sealer from the lower portions of the stamp. It is best to handle the jobs on a case by case basis. You can submit pictures to the CTI tech department for opinions before proceeding or even quoting the job. We are not saying that you shouldn’t do these kinds of jobs. We are saying that you should proceed with caution and seek technical advice as needed.

FAQ's about the new Fast Acting 5000 Binder:

We have been receiving a lot of calls about our e-mail last week introducing the fast acting binder for the Durafleck 5000.

1) What is the new cure time? 3-4 hours depending on weather conditions.

2) How should it be applied? You should not roll out any more than 150 -200 s/f at a time before blowing chips on the binder.

3) Is the mix ratio different? No, the mix ratio is the same as the current 5000 binder.

4) What are the advantages? In a word, time. When used with the Rapid Armor sealer, most jobs can be completed in one day.

5) Are the specs different? No, strengths, etc. are the same as the current 5000 binder.

Take the Proper Safety Precautions

Safety First

By Ethan Schneider

Well spring has sprung. For CTI dealers this means that things start to get very busy and even some times a bit hectic. It is easy to forget or overlook some very basic safety precautions that can help protect you, your workers, and your customers. Some insurance carriers require certain PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) to be worn on job sites. This may include ANSI approved impact resistant safety glasses, work gloves, steel toed boots, etc., and in some cases respirators for working with chemicals or dust.

Before working with any tools it is always a good idea to inspect the tools to make sure they are in proper working order, especially power tools. Power tools should be checked before each use. Make sure chords and plugs are in good condition and properly grounded. Make sure all buttons and switches are operable and in the off position before plugging them in. All employees working with power tools should review the tool manufacturer’s manual for safe and proper operation prior to use. Blades and bits used with power tools should be checked for damage before each use and should be properly matched for the tool with which it is being used. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for safe operation. Keep an updated industrial first aid kit in your trailer or truck. It is also recommended that you keep a bottle of emergency eye wash solution along with your first aid kit.

Take the time to discuss safety and proper procedures with your employees. A great day of work is when a beautiful job is completed and everyone goes home without incident.

Maintenance Of The CTi Product Lines

by Ethan Schneider

Hallmark system including stone trowel and acrylistain systems with 150 or 155 sealers:

The Hallmark system is designed to be hosed off on exterior applications.

Use a mild detergent such as dawn dish soap and water. A nylon deck brush can be used to loosen dirt and debris.

For more stubborn stains such as tannic acid left from falling leaves, you can use a solution of household bleach and water. The mix ratio is 1 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water. Allow the mixture to sit on the stained area for 10 to 15 minutes then gently scrub with a nylon brush and rinse off with fresh water. A power washer can be used with a 45 degree tip held approximately 2 feet above the surface so as not to damage the coating.

Note: Do not use solvent based cleaners such as Pine-Sol, Goo-Gone, or any other type of solvents on 150 or 155 sealers. If you have difficulty cleaning or removing stains consult with the technical department for assistance.

Rust or stains caused by iron oxides usually associated with lawn fertilizers can be removed with a product called "Rustaid". "Rustaid" can usually be purchased at stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Manards, Ace Hardware, or online. It comes in one gallon jugs and is simply sprayed on the rust stains and then rinsed off with plain water.

Duraflek systems with Aquathane 6000, Proseal 200 , or Rapid Armor can be cleaned with a mild detergent such as dawn dish soap and water. Stubborn stains can usually be removed by cleaning with a bleach and water solution (same as above) 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Allow the mixture to sit on the area for 10-15 minutes, gently scrub and rinse off with fresh water.

Since both the 6000 and 200 are chemical resistant urethanes most household cleaners can used to clean them. In extreme cases you may be advised by CTI to use certain solvents or chemicals to remove stains. Please consult with technical department for assistance.