Tips From The Field

by Ethan Schneider

It is important that the Rapid Armor be abraded or sanded prior to the top coat application. 220 grit sandpaper works well for this. After sanding it is also important that all the dust be removed. It is recommended to wipe the surface with Acetone or Xylene after sanding to remove remaining dust. You can also go over the surface gently with a "Tack" cloth prior to application of the Pro-seal 200 or Aquathane 6000.

Watch Your Temperatures

by Ethan Schneider

Summer temperatures can affect your CTI products, especially sealers.

All CTI sealers are tested in a variety of different environments ranging from extreme cold to extreme heat. The figures that are provided on each product spec sheet for cure times, pot life, re-coat window times, and application procedures are all based on an average temperature of 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you store your products in your trailer and it is 90 degrees outside, your products are likely to hit temperatures close to 120 degrees. High temperatures can drastically affect pot life of two component products especially epoxy resins such as Rapid Armor, Superseal 210, Enviroprime, and 5000 Binder. Urethanes such as Aquathane 6000 and Pro-seal 200 can also be affected. Prolonged exposure of your products to high temperatures can also significantly shorten their shelf life.

Before using these products, it is recommended that you make sure the products are brought to the proper temperature range before mixing and application. For most products that range is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are a couple of ways to insure that your products are in the proper temperature range before application.

1. Try to store the products in the environment where they are going to be applied for several hours before the application.
2. Store the products in the air conditioned cab of your truck on your way to the job site.

Get a Better Bite

Recently there has been some discussion among CTI dealers and CTI corporate about using the "Magic Trowel" and or other squeegee type tools for skim coat applications.

Historically CTI has always promoted and taught skim coat application with stainless steel pool trowels. Application with the trowels ensures both a mechanical and chemical bond with the substrate.

The mechanical bond is a very important factor in the long term performance of the CTI system. Unfortunately, skim coat applications that are done using "MagicTrowels" or squeegee’s do not achieve the same degree of mechanical bond as those done with pool trowels and are therefore at greater risk of failure.

With that said, it is CTI’s position that it is always better to hand trowel skim coat applications

Villanova University Conducts Rigorous Testing on CTi's Products for PennDOT.

The college of engineering at Villanova University has just completed a series of rigorous tests on the CTi decorative overlay system for the Pennsylvania Department of Transportation. The tests centered around the strength and durability of the overlay in extreme stress and environmental situation.

The CTi System passed all test with flying colors and is now being considered by the Department of Tranportation as a protective and decorative measure to many of the bridge and road projects currently on their books.

To see the results of the tests, visit our Dealer Support site, sign in, and click on the "Products" tab. The results are the "Product Specifications" section.

Summer Application Tips

1) Temper your slabs to make skimming easier. During the summer months, concrete slabs can get too hot for application. The best way to cool a slab is to spray it down prior to your skim coat. First, spray the slab down completely to let the water absorb down into the concrete. Let the slab dry until water does not puddle on your hand when you put it down on the concrete. Begin your skim coat process and while you are skim coating, mist the slab to add more moisture and cool it.

2) Keep your modifier in a cool place. The summer months mean hot trailers. Take only the amount of modifier you will need for a job with you in your trailer. Leave the rest of your supply in a temperature controlled area. When modifier gets too hot (especially after it's been opened), it could grow fungus and ruin the product. If your modifier starts to "smell", don't use it as the fungus could have started to break down the chemistry of the modifier.

3) Keep an eye on the weather. Afternoon showers are a common occurrence in many areas of the country. Make sure you're prepared to protect your work when you know weather is on the way. If you get a skim coat down and it is completely dry, it will withstand most rain storms. You may have to touch up a couple of areas where downspouts drench the area, but most of the time your skim coat will remain in tact. Once you've sprayed your texture coat, allow enough time to get at least one coat of sealer on the project and that it dries. This will be enough to protect the project underneath.

Tips for application of "Aquathane 6000" and "Aquathane 6000 Satin".

The mixing procedure for both 6000 and 6000 Satin are the same. Pour the B component in to the A component original container and mix for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer at a meduim speed making sure not to form a vortex whipping in air.

Next take the mixed product and pour it in to a clean bucket and let it induce for 15 minutes and then mix it again for 1 minute with the jiffy mixer. The product should now be ready for application.

(Note) the "6000 Satin A" component may have a wax like layer on the top of the can and or chunks of wax like material within it. This is normal. Just make sure the product is thoroughly mixed, as the wax like material is what gives it the satin or matted appearance.

Use a 1/2" nap phenolic core roller to apply the 6000.

The 6000 has a 2-3 hour pot life so there is plenty of time to carefully apply the product.

Dip the roller in the bucket and begin the application. 6000 should be applied in a nice even thin coat. It should look like blueish skim milk on the floor. You should be able to see through the product when it is properly applied. If it is solid white then it has been applied too thick.

It is important to back roll out your lap lines between each pass of the roller. When you are done you should not see roller lap lines in the wet product. When you are back rolling be sure to take almost all the pressure off of the roller so that it very lightly pulls out the lines. This technique is even more critical with the Satin version.

Cure time for Aquathane "6000 and 6000 Satin" can vary dramatically depending on temperature, humidity, ventilation, and air movement. 6000 is a waterborne urethane. If it is applied indoors it is important to have ventilation and air movement so that the moisture has some place to go. If the area is shut up tight with little ventilation then the moisture will have no where to go and it will take much longer for the 6000 to cure.

Call the CTI tech department if you have additional questions.

Using 280 Over Concrete Board

Many of you ask how to use the 280 system over Hardy board for use in various areas. Here is a step by step instruction on how to put this system together accompanied with an illustration:

1. You should screw the Hardy board down with SS Screws every 6-12 inches on center. Make sure to countersink your screws.

2. Apply a coat of 280 over the joints where the Hardy board or DuroRock meet. You should dab some over the screw heads as well.

3. Apply drywall fiber mesh tape over the joints on the 280 waterproofing membrane.

4. A second coat of 280 is applied to the joints and troweled smooth.

5. Once steps 1-4 have been performed, the system should be allowed to dry for 24 hours. Then sand or rub brick to help smooth out and feather the edges.

6. The CTI System is now applied as usual over the top.

The CTI concrete board system is used for going over interior subfloors, countertops, walls (interior and exterior) and has been used to make custom signs.

NOTE: You need to make sure that what you’re going over does not have too much movement or flex to it. This is one of the reasons we screw the concrete board 6-12 inches on center so as to help ridge up the floor, counter, etc. If there is too much movement, the seams (joints) will telegraph or show a hairline crack at the surface.

Properly priming the slab before skimming.

by Ethan Schneider

Recently there has been some discussion about priming the slab before skim coating. To clarify this issue it is important to understand why we prime the slab after it has been properly prepped and before we skim.

On exterior applications we prime the slab with a mist of water to dampen the slab just prior to skimming. Doing this serves two main purposes.

1.Priming with water slows the absorbtion rate down so that the modifier has more time to penetrate into the pours of the concrete thus creating a better bond.

2. By slowing down the absobtion rate, it makes it easier to trowel the skim mix because it stays wetter longer. If we did not prime the slab before we skimmed then the slab would hydrate itself by absorbing the modier directly out of our skim mix causing the mix to tighten up faster.

It is important to to remember that we want to skim over a damp slab not a wet slab. We do not want to skim over standing or pooled water. The slab should appear darker because it is damp not shiny because it is wet.

There are specific situations when we may describe priming with modifier or not priming at all particularly on indoor projects or in colder climates. Please consult with the CTI technical department to determine the best procedure for the specific project.

• Tell customers they should expect a card in

the mail in about two years to schedule a light

power wash and more than likely, another

coat of sealer.

Please explain that if they do not call

or return the card you will not call

them to schedule this appointment.

Those warranty calls are great selling

opportunities for other areas of their