Friday, December 16, 2011

Working with a Radiant Heat Concrete Surface

Radiant heat flooring is a situation you may encounter if you live in a colder climate. Radiant heating is the process of embedding tubing in a concrete surface (i.e. interior floors for room heating and exterior slabs to melt snow and ice) and then having hot water or electric heating transmit through this tubing to warm the concrete slab.

The challenge posed by radiant heat flooring is that of not harming the tubing during the preparation stages. Since the floor has tubing running approximately 2” down throughout the floor, you cannot cut the floor for tension relief.

Preparation of a radiant heat floor must be mechanical. Use of acid on a radiant heat slab may cause damage to the tubing. Crack repair procedures can be utilized by forming a small “V” channel in the slab along the crack line and injecting the Fast Crack 1431. Once the mechanical preparation and crack repair is done, the installation of the CTI System can proceed as normal.

Once the CTI System has been installed, it is recommended that the radiant heat unit not be used for a minimum of 30 days. This allows the CTI System to cure and so the rapid heating of the concrete caused by the radiant heating doesn’t damage the surface.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Factors That Affect Color

CTi has always been a proponent of selling its product from sample boards showing the actual color combination and sealer used. This tool not only gives the customer a much better representation of the finished product, it also shows them how the colors will end up.

Two main factors affect how color is perceived in the final product. Explaining this to the customer will help them understand and in the end increase their overall satisfaction with your work.

Reflectivity: Texture will affect how reflective the surface is. The smoother the texture (i.e. Stone Troweled vs. Hallmark texture), the more reflective the surface will be. The more reflective a surface is the lighter the colors will appear.

Highlight Choices: The overall appearance of a main color will be affected by the colors used in highlighting it. The darker the colors used to highlight, the darker the main color will appear. In certain instances, you will notice a color change depending on the angle you view the project.

Listening to your customer is the best way to satisfy their needs, but once you know what they are looking for (especially regarding color), you need to keep these factors in mind as you complete the color choice process.

Friday, May 27, 2011

Making Sample Boards

By Ethan Schneider

So you just received all your materials and ready to start coating everything in sight. Before you do something to mother in laws driveway that you may regret for the rest of your life, you might want to consider making a few sample boards first. In dealer training Chuck makes it very clear that it is important to make sample boards for several reasons.

First, you need to get all your equipment dialed in and adjusted properly, as well as getting used to how it all feels in your hands. By adjusting your equipment and playing around a little bit, you’ll become more comfortable and you’ll start to learn how to achieve the perfect results your looking for.

Second, you don’t want to waste a significant amount of product on a project without having some idea of what you are doing. Worse case scenario, you might end up having to grind it all off because it didn’t turn out the way you wanted or didn’t end up as a good example of your capabilities.

Before all your materials arrive, you should review all of your instructional DVD’s located in your welcome aboard package. Be sure to view the segment labeled "Doing the job right" There is also a video called "Assembling your equipment" located in the "Product application section" of the dealer website located at http://www.cti-concrete.com that should be viewed prior to getting started. Once you have organized all your materials, and reviewed the videos, then it’s time to get started making some basic sample boards.

We are often asked, "what’s the best material to use for sample boards?" You can use 1/4"or 3/8" plywood, Luan, Masonite , Hardy-back board or Dura-rock. Any of these materials will work fine. Luan is light, durable, and inexpensive. On your first sample boards you may want to just use entire 4’ by 8’ ft. sheets of plywood. With this size you will be able to work on your skimming, spraying, and taping techniques. If you don’t like the way they turn out the first time, you can skim right back over them again and start over.

After you have practiced on the 4’ by 8’ sheets a few times and have gotten a little more comfortable with the product then you might want to consider making some smaller sample boards usually 2’x 2’. This size is light, easy to carry around, and can easily fit in a small car used for sales calls. Architects and designers also prefer the more convenient smaller sample boards.

Making sample boards requires the same procedures as doing a real job except for the prep of the surface. On a real job we would either acid-etch and power wash or mechanically abrade the surface in order to properly prep the concrete. Because sample boards are usually made of wood we recommend just skim coating them twice.

We suggest making at least 6 to 10 sample boards at one time. It doesn’t make sense to mix products and get your tools and equipment dirty for only 1 sample board. We usually start by mixing a ½ bucket of 105 grout at skim consistency. For half a bucket we mix ½ a bag of 105 grout and 2 ½ to 3 qts. of 110 or 112 modifier. We mix the grout with our ½" drill and square mixing paddle. Once the grout has been mixed, we then pour it out equally in to 5 or 6 smaller buckets. We then add approximately ¼ cup of 190 colorant to each of the smaller buckets making each bucket a different color so you can skim different boards in different colors. Next we skim coat each of our sample boards. After the first skim coat has cured, we lightly flat scrape or rub brick the surface, brush or blow it off and skim again. Allow the skimmed sample boards to cure out completely. Cure time will depend on temperature, humidity, air movement, and direct sunlight. Cure time could be as little as 1 hour at 85 degrees outside in direct sun light or over night if inside with cooler conditions.

Once the skim coat has fully cured, again flat scrape or rub brick as needed to remove any sling from the troweling and then brush and blow off. Any excess dust. At this point you can tape out the desired patterns using filament tape. You can do bricks, stones, tiles, etc.

After you have applied the filament tape for the patterns you will have to decide what type of texture you are going to apply over the tape, either a spray texture or a hand troweled stone texture. For either the spray or stone troweled texture, we will need to mix up another ½ bucket of 105 grout. This time however, we will make the mix a little bit thicker. We’ll mix ½ a bag of 105 grout with 2 ½ qts. of either 110 or 112 modifier. Be sure to mix thoroughly so that there are no lumps that might clog your hopper gun. Use a margin trowel to scrape the inside of the bucket when you mix to insure consistency. Once the grout is mixed, pour it equally into 5 or 6 separate buckets and then add ¼ cup of 190 colorant to each bucket making them all different colors. Now you have the ability to spray multiple combinations of colors on multiple boards. We suggest shooting the boards with lighter main spray colors first. Remember, when you spray your highlights to start with the lightest color and then work your way to the darkest. You will have to either clean your gun or switch guns to go back to your original main spray color. Refer to the "Doing the job right video" if this is unclear. Once you have sprayed and highlighted your boards, allow them to cure out thoroughly. Once cured, you can flat scrape, broom, and blow them off. At this point they should be ready to seal. For most Hallmark samples 2 coats of 150 or 155 sealer can be applied. You can use other CTI sealers such as Rapid Armor, Aquathane 6000, or Pro-seal 200 as well.

If you have questions about making sample boards call the CTI tech department.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Sealer Mixing Instructions

by Ethan Schneider

Designer Series 120 pigmented Sealer: Single component sealer, Be sure to mix thoroughly prior to application. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats for light foot traffic areas, 3 coats recommended for vehicular or heavy traffic areas. Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats.

Series 150 Texture Enhancer: Single component sealer., Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 even coats. Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats. Can be used on patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways etc.

Series 155 Sealer: Single component sealer, no mixing required. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 even coats Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats. Can be used on patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways etc.

Pro Seal 200: Two component urethane. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer. Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and mix for 1 additional minute. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats in most situations. Coverage is 80 – 150 s/f per gallon at 2 coats depending on how smooth or porous the surface is. Be sure to review the product spec sheets for re-coat window times and for proper ventilation.

Rapid Armor: Two component high build epoxy. Pour part B into part A and mix at a medium speed for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer (do not whip air into the product). Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour the mixture into a clean container and mix for an additional minute. Apply 1 even coat depending on the desired finish. Use a 3/8" large cell foam roller, coverage is 80-100 s/f per gallon. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..

Aquathane 6000: Two component urethane. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and set aside for at least 10 minutes to allow the product to go through its induction stage. Mix for an additional 1 minute. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats in most situations. Coverage is 80 – 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats depending on how smooth the original surface is. Be sure to review the product spec sheets for re-coat window times and for proper ventilation.

Super Seal 210: Two component high build epoxy. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and mix for an additional 1 minute. Apply 1 coats in most situations with a notched squeegee and then back- roll with a large cell foam roller for smoothness. Product will self level to a degree so do not worry about rolling out completely smooth. Coverage is 80 – 100 s/f per gallon at 10-30 mils depending on the surface. It is recommended that Enviroprime be applied first before application of the Superseal 210. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..

Durafleck 5000 Binder: (This is the first binder coat used when applying the Durafleck 5000 system. It is NOT to be used as a sealer) Two component epoxy binder. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for two minutes, pour into a clean container, put aside for at least 10 minutes and allow the product to go through its induction stage, then mix for 1 additional minute. . Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2"phenolic core roller. Coverage should be at no less than 10 to 15 mils to insure the flakes adhere to the binder. Coverage is 100 s/f per gallon ideally and 125 s/f. per gallon maximum.

EnviroPrime : Two component epoxy primer. Pour part B into part A and mix at a medium speed for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer (do not whip air into the product). Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour the mixture into a clean container and mix for an additional minute. Apply 1 even coat depending on the desired finish. Use a 3/8" large cell foam roller, coverage is 150-300 s/f per gallon depending on floor texture, porosity, and thickness of application. Can also be applied using a pool trowel. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..
The above instructions are general, and do not take in to account specific situations and other variables such as temperatures and environmental circumstances. Specific product coverage’s can vary depending on a number of different variables. Please contact the tech department if you require additional mixing or application assistance.
Sealer Mixing Instructions

Designer Series 120 pigmented Sealer: Single component sealer, Be sure to mix thoroughly prior to application. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats for light foot traffic areas, 3 coats recommended for vehicular or heavy traffic areas. Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats.

Series 150 Texture Enhancer: Single component sealer., Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 even coats. Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats. Can be used on patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways etc.

Series 155 Sealer: Single component sealer, no mixing required. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 even coats Coverage is approximately 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats. Can be used on patios, pool decks, walkways, driveways etc.

Pro Seal 200: Two component urethane. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer. Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and mix for 1 additional minute. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats in most situations. Coverage is 80 – 150 s/f per gallon at 2 coats depending on how smooth or porous the surface is. Be sure to review the product spec sheets for re-coat window times and for proper ventilation.

Rapid Armor: Two component high build epoxy. Pour part B into part A and mix at a medium speed for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer (do not whip air into the product). Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour the mixture into a clean container and mix for an additional minute. Apply 1 even coat depending on the desired finish. Use a 3/8" large cell foam roller, coverage is 80-100 s/f per gallon. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..

Aquathane 6000: Two component urethane. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and set aside for at least 10 minutes to allow the product to go through its induction stage. Mix for an additional 1 minute. Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2" phenolic core roller. Apply 2 coats in most situations. Coverage is 80 – 100 s/f per gallon at 2 coats depending on how smooth the original surface is. Be sure to review the product spec sheets for re-coat window times and for proper ventilation.

Super Seal 210: Two component high build epoxy. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour into a clean container and mix for an additional 1 minute. Apply 1 coats in most situations with a notched squeegee and then back- roll with a large cell foam roller for smoothness. Product will self level to a degree so do not worry about rolling out completely smooth. Coverage is 80 – 100 s/f per gallon at 10-30 mils depending on the surface. It is recommended that Enviroprime be applied first before application of the Superseal 210. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..

Durafleck 5000 Binder: (This is the first binder coat used when applying the Durafleck 5000 system. It is NOT to be used as a sealer) Two component epoxy binder. Pour part B into part A and mix in a steady, non-vigorous manner for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer Once mixed for two minutes, pour into a clean container, put aside for at least 10 minutes and allow the product to go through its induction stage, then mix for 1 additional minute. . Apply with a 3/8" or 1/2"phenolic core roller. Coverage should be at no less than 10 to 15 mils to insure the flakes adhere to the binder. Coverage is 100 s/f per gallon ideally and 125 s/f. per gallon maximum.

EnviroPrime : Two component epoxy primer. Pour part B into part A and mix at a medium speed for 2 minutes with a jiffy mixer (do not whip air into the product). Once mixed for 2 minutes, pour the mixture into a clean container and mix for an additional minute. Apply 1 even coat depending on the desired finish. Use a 3/8" large cell foam roller, coverage is 150-300 s/f per gallon depending on floor texture, porosity, and thickness of application. Can also be applied using a pool trowel. Be sure to review the product spec sheet. The product is exothermic and has a short pot life. It also produces heat in mass..
The above instructions are general, and do not take in to account specific situations and other variables such as temperatures and environmental circumstances. Specific product coverage’s can vary depending on a number of different variables. Please contact the tech department if you require additional mixing or application assistance.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Tips on Using Rapid Armor

by Ethan Schneider

Although we have discussed specific instructions in reference to Rapid Armor application, it is essential that the product in the cans be within the proper temperature range prior to mixing and application. The temperature range should be within 70 to 80 degrees farhenheit, ideally 75 degrrees. If the product is to cool say 60 to 65 degrees, it will be much thicker and require much more effeort and pressure on the foam roller to spread out. This will cause micro bubbles to be forced into the product.

On the other hand, if the cans are left in a hot trailer say 90 to 105 degrees or hotter, then the pot life when mixed will decrease dramatically resulting in very little application time before the product starts to set up.

Ideally at approximately 75 degrees, the Rapid Armor should flow very smoothly with little effort. You know it's right if it literally tends to slide over itself when very lightly pushed with a foam roller.

Be sure to remove dust anf debris from the surface before application. Try to control the environment as much as possible to reduce airborne debris, this includes closing or blocking air vents from heat or air conditioning. Check foam rollers for dust and debris before use. Do not sand any surfaces and then apply Rapid Armor in the same location. Try to prevent doors from opening and closing in close proximity to the tacky Rapid Armor, check your cloths, and hair etc. for additional dust and debris. always double mix Rapid armor in a clean pale.

It is not recommended to ratio mix this product. If a small amount is required then use a 1 quart kit instead of the 1 gallon kit. If you have additional questions or concerns, don't hesitate to consult with the tech department at CTI prior to application.